How to Know You Should Repack Wheel Bering
Here's an Unsealed 4X4 driveway DIY you can knock over earlier y'all head off on holidays: how to cheque and tighten wheel bearings!
Bicycle bearings are something you don't think near until they're whining their head off like a millennial having to become to work, or you've just lost a front bicycle on the way down Toowoomba plateau. So start and foremost, allow's look at what leads to a quick death of wheel bearings – and how to minimise their wear and the gamble you lot'll lose a wheel.
Bigger wider tyres
Despite all the pros of going bigger and wider in the safe section, one of the cons is that it increases the side-load on wheel bearings, which will cause the rollers to run with more pressure on one side than the other. Nosotros're not saying don't do information technology, only sympathize that your bearings will flog out sooner than they otherwise would.
Neg 500 wheels
Same bargain equally above… by putting the contact point of the rubber and wheel outside (or even inside) the centre of the mating face of wheel to hub, you lot're going to increase side-load over again. Go neg 44s and information technology'll exist even worse…
Cooling speed
An inherent aspect of wheel bearings (and bearings in general) is heat. Driving for three hours with a gunkhole on the dorsum, pulling up at the boat ramp and launching the tinny every bit soon as yous go at that place is going to cool the bearings down to common cold pretty bloody chop-chop. This tin crevice the bearing and cage (that holds the rollers in identify), and you're gonna have a bad solar day. The other outcome is that going from hot to common cold creates a vacuum behind the seal, and tin can describe water into your hub or behind the begetting. If yous didn't know, rust is bad, and chocolate milk for oil just won't cutting it, m'kay?
Metallurgy
Don't. Buy. Cheap. Bearings. Ever. If you absolutely must save a couple of dollars on your rig, stop putting those stupid My Family stickers on it (chances are, your life and the lives of your family members aren't going to rely on the stickers). Bicycle bearings, nonetheless, stop the wheels falling off… which is kinda important. Cheap bearings are cheap for a reason, whether through the manufacturing procedure, materials used or both, so cheap won't last. Make sure you go Japanese bearings, or European – think Timkin, SKF, etc. Practice non buy crappy Chinese bearings!
Wrong fitment
Concluding but certainly not to the lowest degree, over-tightening (or under-tightening, for that matter) will lead to a swift decease of the bearings. If you're going to have a fissure at doing them yourself, know how to torque them upwards properly, or leave it to an practiced. On this thought, it's absolutely worth getting and keeping the right size hub socket in your vehicle, but in case you're 500 miles from habitation and a bike bearing does work itself loose – yous can nip information technology up to become yourself home safely and not accept to worry nearly a wheel falling off.
Bonus points: Genuine bicycle bearings.
Something that might blow your mind a bit here is that genuine bearings (and seals for that matter), that come in a niggling 18-carat parts box, will really hold an SKF or Timken (or other brand proper noun) bearing. True story. Every bit an example, Toyota doesn't make bearings; it purchases top-quality parts and puts them in a 18-carat box; well-nigh oft a quality Japanese bearing. All of the Toyota Genuine seals I've come across were NOK branded, too, then you don't need to buy '18-carat'. Just make certain yous become to your local bearing shop (CBC, for example) and buy high-quality 'brand name' bearings. Alternatively, you can absolutely become a Drivetech or Terrain Tamer wheel bearing kit; they only use quality Japanese bearings in their kits.
How to check your cycle bearings?
Tools you'll need
It's pretty straightforward in the tool department (for an 80 Serial LandCruiser, anyhow):
- Decent socket ready
- Decent spanner ready
- Rattle gun… considering easy way
- Razor bract for cleaning up whatever gaskets that go destroyed (think hub gasket) – a Toyota Wheel Bearing kit should come with one for each side.
- Circlip pliers
- Hub socket (54mm for the 'Cruiser)
- Loftier temp bearing grease
- Degreaser and brake cleaner (brake cleaner doesn't leave any residual)
- A couple of bottles of brake fluid (as I upgraded my brakes to bigger callipers and discs while I was at it) plus a full restriction fluid affluent
- WD40 for when the six-foot billow bar but won't go that nut off!
Bank check for whatever play
Showtime off by getting the bicycle off the basis and checking to see if there is any play acme to lesser and side to side.
Do this by grabbing the outside of the tyre and giving it a bit of 'jerk' superlative and bottom and both sides. If there is any movement your bike bearings are more than than likely shot.
Pull the hub encompass off
Wheels and brakes come off offset; and if we need to tell you lot how to do this, then y'all're meliorate off leaving the job to a mechanic! If you're game and slap-up on the spanners, in one case you've got the bicycle and brakes off, y'all'll want to pull off the outer locking hub. It's easiest to practise this with the hub in 'Costless' as it pulls the hub together, and then it's a overnice tight part when you pull information technology out (not a hub hanging on the end of a jump threatening to break upwards faster than Sting and The Police). After the six 10mm bolts are out, this should merely pull directly out.
Remove the manual hub and circlip
Remove the circlip from around the end of the CV and undo the six 12mm nuts property the manual hub on. Nether the nuts you'll find flat washers and cone washers. Use a brass drift and tap the end of the studs to loosen the cone washers and pull them out – a calorie-free tap with the hammer on the side of the hub volition loosen them plenty to become them out, or you can get a tiny flat-blade screwdriver into the splits in the cone washers and pull them out. You can employ a pair of screwdrivers to lever the hub off if it's a lilliputian tight.
Remove the wheel begetting lock nuts and lock washer
Side by side you'll need to fold the tabs down on the lock washer to requite access to the first cycle bearing nut. Once you've got the commencement nut off, you should be able to remove the lock washer and get admission to the second cycle bearing nut. Make certain y'all flatten out the lock washer at this betoken so you lot can reuse it if it's still in good nick (my kit didn't come with a new lock washer). And then go ahead and undo the final wheel begetting nut and remove it from the hub.
Remove the hub and rotor together, and clean them upwardly!
Now you've got the hub assembly off, give it a decent clean – cleaning out any grease and checking the seals for marks or obvious signs it'due south been rubbing untrue. After cleaning the grease out of the hub assembly you'll be able to see the bike begetting'south cup and cones.
Repacking the bearings
My bearings were in good nick, but the grease was closer to oil than grease, so I repacked them and retightened to spec. Essentially, you put some grease in the palm of your hand and push button the bearing onto the grease so it forces the grease through the begetting. Go on adding grease, and pushing it through the bearing until it'south coming out the other side (the whole way round). Should y'all need to supervene upon the bearings you'll have to knock the cups out of the hub associates, knock the new ones in until they're all the way home, and grease the cones up equally outlined.
Tightening and reassembly
Once you've repacked everything information technology'southward fourth dimension to put it all back together. I'k not going to go into torque settings or 'feeling the bearing preload' equally it's different across the different 4X4s out there… suffice to say, you'll find it in the workshop manual or you can ask Google. From at that place it is just a matter of completely reassembling things contrary to the way you lot've taken information technology all apart… and then you're done. Oh, brand sure you check for play in the cycle when it'south all back together.
Written report
Source: https://unsealed4x4.com.au/a-guide-to-wheel-bearings-and-how-to-check-repack-and-replace-them/
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